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Two Years of Record Temperatures
Taking Their Toll
by Kevin Bassett & Russell N. Peters
first published in August, 2000
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The 1998 and 1999 summers in
North Texas have been brutal on our shade trees, both native and
introduced. One key impact is that we have seen established
Shumard and Texas Red Oaks fail to re-leaf this year. Some of these
trees are on irrigated sites in well cared for gardens.
It appears that high soil temperatures
during the last two years have damaged the root systems of these species
resulting in death or significant dieback of the tree. Many of
these formed buds for this year's growth, last fall, then went into dormancy
as normal, but failed to leaf out this year. We have ruled out
most pathological reasons that might have caused the mortality.
These are Red Oaks that have not sustained any type of root injury or
change in their root environment. What is interesting about each
of these particular trees is that not one was on a consistent
deep
root fertilization program before it died. Another example of
the potential benefits in the proactive care of trees.
Many of our customers utilize our customized
blend of high quality organic fertilizer in their maintenance
program. The high-pressure soil injection process aerates the soil
while surrounding the main root system with our special mix. The
effectiveness of the system is quite impressive, particularly when
utilized in areas with distressed trees, or even worse, those
damaged
by construction.
The fertilizer material has a high humate
content, along with a micronutrient complex and beneficial soil borne
bacteria. This material does not promote excessive top growth, as
many high nitrogen materials will. It does however, promote a
healthy environment in and around the root zone of trees stimulating the
natural biological systems. As mentioned, the application process
helps aerate the root zone. This is critical in our heavy clay
soils of North Texas, as tree roots are opportunistic growers in
well-aerated soils. Root invigoration programs can be designed on
a remedial basis if we are working with damaged trees or a maintenance
basis once or twice a year.
Of course, anyone interested in more
information about our deep root fertilization program can contact an
Arborist at our office.
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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
Spider Mites
by Kevin Bassett and Russell Peters
first published in May, 1999
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Spider mites are a pest that
attack a wide variety of our shade trees and landscape plant material.
Mites are technically not an insect but more
closely related to ticks or spiders. They are extremely small and
difficult to see with the naked eye. The damage, however, is
fairly easy to spot once you become familiar with the symptoms that
spider mites produce.
A flecking or stippling appearance on the
top side of foliage of affected plant material is the most common
symptom produced by spider mites. Often a dusty or gray cast is apparent
on damaged foliage. Many of the warm season mites produce toxins
during feeding on plant tissue, which can cause yellowing and leaf drop
when populations are high. Spider mites have a short life cycle
and reproduce every 5 (five) days. Often all stages from eggs to
adult are present at any one time.
Daytime temperatures over 75 degrees are
favorable for spider mite activity and reproduction. In the north
Texas area, we normally experience mite activity from May through September.
Early control measures, prior to the development of wide spread visual
damage, is critical.
Mites will commonly over-winter on trees and
shrubs. Over-wintering populations can be greatly reduced with
dormant oil applications. This manages the mites present on the
plant at the time of application and helps reduce early season
outbreaks. Additional control measures are necessary with approved
miticides. A series of spray applications are made from May
through August to assure good control.
Trees and shrubs in our area which are
commonly attacked by spider mites include: Bald Cypress, Live Oak,
Cedar Elm, Magnolia, Althea, Azalea, and Boxwood.
Contact your Arborist for more information
and pricing of our spray programs.
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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
Suffering North Texas Trees
by Kevin R. Bassett and Russell N. Peters
first published in January, 1999
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Another year has gone by and
most of our trees endured a difficult Texas summer. As the new
year begins it is a good time to review arborilogical services which may
be needed over the next year.
INSECT & DISEASE CONTROL
Many species of trees are targets of pests
such as scale insects, lace bugs, phylloxera gall, etc... Many of
these insects may be controlled with a dormant season application of a
horticulture grade oil. The oil applied to smother the insect eggs
and/or adults that survived the winter. The material is endorsed
in many "organic" insect control programs because
horticultural grade oil is easy on the environment and non-target
organisms. The horticultural oil application is an extremely safe
and effective tool to manage many over-wintering insects. Check
with your Arborist to see if a dormant oil spray would benefit your
trees.
PRUNING
Timing of the tree pruning operation may or
may not be important to your trees. Most trees may be safely
pruned at any time of the year, however, there are exceptions. Due
to the incidence of Oak wilt, it is recommended that Red Oaks and Live
Oaks NOT be pruned between Feb. 15th and June 1st. This is because
these species are most susceptible due to the increased level of
activity of the sap feeding beetle at a time when the fungus is most
likely reproducing. Therefore, if your Live Oaks or Red Oaks are
in need of pruning, it should be done prior to Feb. 15th or after June
1st.
Control of mistletoe, a parasitic plant, can
be achieved by pruning to remove infected twigs and branches. This
is not always 100% possible because the mistletoe may have infected
major limbs or branches which would not be removed during the normal
course of pruning. Control of mistletoe is achieved by removing
the mistletoe plant prior to dissemination of the seeds. They are
covered with a sticky, gelatinous substance so they will stick to
the tree and germinate, thus forming a new mistletoe plant. Birds
play a primary role in disseminating the seed. The sticky coating
around the seed allows the seed to stick to limbs once it passes through
the bird. Pruning for mistletoe control is best done in the
dormant season when the mistletoe is easily visible. Normally it
will take two or three years for the mistletoe to reach the seed
producing stage again. This is when pruning to control the
mistletoe should be repeated. There is a spray labeled "for
mistletoe control" called "Florel." Unfortunately,
this material is expensive, requires precise timing to be efficient, and
can have undesirable effects on non-target plants. If mistletoe is
a problem for your trees, consult your Arborist about the treatment
options available to control this threat to your tree's health.
There are a number of fungal leaf diseases
which occur on our trees. These would include black spot of Elm,
Ash anthracnose, Oak anthracnose, tar spot, and actinopelte leaf
spot. These diseases can be unsightly as well as unhealthy for
your trees. They normally begin when moderate temperatures and
high moisture levels are present for a long period of time. The
droplets of water on the leaf surface create an ideal environment for
the fungal spores to germinate, infect the leaf tissue and begin the
disease cycle. Severely infected leaves are usually cast off by
the tree. A healthy tree will readily produce new leaves, however,
this process requires that the tree expend a lot of energy in combating
the disease. Weak or otherwise stressed trees may not respond
vigorously and decline. These diseases may be controlled. An
initial spray with a fungicide treatment is repeated on 2-3 week
intervals to suppress the fungi until warmer, drier weather prevails and
the threat of infection subsides. Trees which have had a disease
of this type within the last two years are prime candidates for control
measures. This is because the fungal spores over-winter in the bud
scales surrounding the new leaf. When the new leaves emerge, the
spores are already present. If environmental conditions favor the
fungi, infection and subsequent disease symptoms will result.
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FERTILIZATION/DEEP
ROOT INVIGORATION
Trees normally live in forests. In
the forest a tree's nutrition is supplied by the gradual breakdown of
organic matter by micro organisms. The urban forest rarely has this
type of nutrient recycling because the urban forest is dominated by
large areas of turf and paving. Additionally, we humans have a
habit of picking up and discarding fallen limbs, branches, leaves and
other sources of organic matter vital to the health and well being of
trees. Our tree fertilization/root invigoration program is
designed to infuse the urban soil with many of the missing ingredients
found in forest soils. Humus is one of the end products of organic
matter decomposition, and is one of the main components of our mix for
tree fertilization and root invigoration. We add other materials
such as sulfur and iron when needed to help our non-native trees adapt
and hopefully thrive in what is a less than ideal soil. Our
fertilization technique allows for a custom mix of materials required by
the species on a given site. For instance, a property which has
several Sweet Gum and Magnolia will receive a measured amount of
chelated iron and sulfur along with our standard mix. This is to
provide the tree with nutrients not normally available in our poorly
drained clay soil, due in part to the high pH. Remember, many
species planted in Dallas actually prefer a low pH, well drained, loamy
or sandy soil and would not grow well in the area without help.
As always, if you have particular questions
about your trees, consult with your Arborist. We are confident we
can help your trees endure the rigors of growing in our urban forest.
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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
"The Summer of 1998"
by Kevin Bassett and Russell Peters
first published in September, 1998
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We are experiencing the hottest
weather we have had in nearly two decades. Not only are the
temperatures high, but they have been constant as well. This has
taken its toll on our landscapes and especially our trees. Many of
the tree species which are not well adapted are failing. Many of
these have been planted since the last time we experienced temperatures
like this, nearly 18 years ago.
It appears that Mother Nature is cleaning up
the exotic taste of many of our Landscape Architects. Birch,
exotic Maples, Cherries and many others are fading away. This is a
good lesson to learn from. We so often look only at "plant
hardiness", a rating which predicts how low of a temperature a
plant can tolerate without substantial winter injury.
Unfortunately, there is really not a rating for heat tolerance.
This is leading to some substantial plant loss throughout the Metroplex.
The species of trees which we have
recommended to avoid, Silver Maple for example, are failing in high
numbers. The high air temperatures have raised the average soil
temperature above our norm as well. This can accelerate the onset
of soil borne pathogens.
The biggest mistake we are seeing is that
homeowners are trying to compensate for the heat by increasing the
irrigation frequency and output. Many times this will cause
irreversible damage to the root systems of existing trees which can lead
to failure in the future. It is certain that irrigation systems
need to be adjusted, but please do not overdo. It is difficult to
provide a recommendation for all properties because there are so many
variables when it comes to a specific site and water needs. In
general our soils absorb water slowly, therefore, high volume irrigation
systems deliver too much water too fast, resulting in runoff and
waste. Ideal irrigation would thoroughly wet the soil to a depth
of at least one foot. Deep, slow irrigation once or twice a week
is preferable to daily, light irrigation. One promotes deeply
rooted, healthy plants equipped to deal with the worst Texas weather,
and the other produces shallow rooted plants which readily exhibit the
problems associated with drought conditions.
There are a few telltale signs to look for around the landscape which
can indicate too much water. The first is a green sheen on the
soil surface indicating algae growth. This green color can also be
seen at the base of foundations and on stone work. The second sign
would be moisture seeping from the edges of walks and curbs. If
you see any of these signs, your trees are likely suffering from too
much water and you should take steps to reduce irrigation frequency and
output.
If you have any questions regarding
this or any other topic we cover, please contact your Arborist.
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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
Pathologists Corner
by Kevin Bassett and Russell Peters
first published in January, 1998
|
Oak
wilt is caused by a fungus (Ceratocystis fagacearum) which
colonizes the vascular system of the tree. Conduction of water is
disrupted causing the leaves to wilt and ultimately for the tree to
die. The disease is highly virulent and spreads in two (2) known
ways. Trees which have formed root grafts with infected trees may
themselves become infected through root graft transmission. For
this reason entire stands of Oak forests may be destroyed over a period
of time. New Oak wilt infection centers may begin when a small sap
feeding beetle (aka Nitidulid) visits a spore mat on an infected Red
Oak. (Live Oaks do not produce spore mats). Once the insect
has visited a spore mat, his body may carry the fungal spores to a fresh
wound, thus creating a new Oak wilt center infection. The sap
feeding beetles are attracted to feed on the sap which oozes from fresh
wounds on trees. Sap feeding beetle activity, spore formation and
tree susceptibility are all at high levels from February to June.
For these reasons the Oak wilt control strategy involves the following
recommendations:
- Avoid pruning mid February - mid June (Red Oaks and Live Oaks).
- If you must prune during this time, paint cuts and wounds as soon
as possible after they occur. The sap flow from wounds usually
has stopped within 24-48 hours, therefore, old wounds do not require
painting.
- Healthy trees near Oak wilt infection centers may be treated on a
preventable basis with the fungicide "Propaconizol" (aka
Alamo). This fungicide is injected into the tree at the root
flares, and can protect trees for up to three (3) years.
- Once trees have become infected, successful therapeutic treatment
with Alamo is possible, however, results vary and most trees will
not survive once symptoms develop.
- Infected trees, particularly Red Oaks, should be removed
promptly. Red Oak firewood may be another means by which the
fungus may be transported to new areas.
Additional research is needed to solve the
biology regarding the overland transmission of this potentially
devastating tree disease.
More information is available concerning Oak
wilt through the Texas A&M extension service, the Texas
Forest Service or on the internet at: http://Cygnus.tamu.edu/texlab/oakwilt.html
If you have any further questions or suspect
you may have Oak wilt please give us a call.
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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
Pathologists Corner
written by Kevin Bassett and Russell Peters
first published in January, 1997
|
Winter is upon us and many times
our trees go without attention. The dormant season is actually a
very good time to prune many of our shade and ornamental trees.
One of the most obvious things we deal with this time of year is
mistletoe.
This plant is a parasite that derives its
nutrients and moisture from the tree it has infected. Infections
left to develop in trees can lead to weakened areas in larger limbs thus
resulting in limb failure. Once the mistletoe plant matures, seeds
are produced which spread throughout the tree canopy, causing multiple
infection sites. Our mistletoe control program is directed toward
removing entire branches or twigs infected with mistletoe. When
large limbs or limbs critical to the structure of the tree are infected
we remove the mistletoe only, however regrowth occurs. Mistletoe
removal will be necessary about ever 2 to 3 years on average. This
will address regrowth of old infections as well as new infections that
will constantly occur on susceptible species.
The North Texas area has a number of
susceptible species, many of which are growing in our residential
landscapes. Cedar Elm by far is the most susceptible high value
species where we see mistletoe infections. Other species include
American Elm, Hackberry, Mulberry, Ash, and Bois d' arc. Winter is
also a common time for new infections to occur as birds will consume the
fruit that has now matured, and deposit seeds throughout the canopies of
susceptible species. We can remove mistletoe anytime of the
year. However, it is much more visible during the dormant season
and in most cases more easily removed this time of year.
Another important process that can be
forgotten this time of year is
deep
root fertilization. Our process utilizes a high quality
organic fertilizer solution applied directly to the root area of our
urban shade trees. This material will be available for uptake by
the tree or plant for 6-8 months. Many of us forget our southern
soils rarely, if ever, freeze and soil temperatures are generally quite
favorable for root growth and development this time of year. The
mixture we use is applied under pressure which aids in aeration of the
root zone as well as uniform distribution throughout the root area of
our trees. Many times the lack of oxygen alone can be the most
limiting element in healthy root growth. This is especially true
in the heavy clay soils of North Texas.
Call one of our qualified I.S.A. Certified
Arborists to assist you with a plan and an estimate of cost for
mistletoe removal and/or deep root fertilization.
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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
"Look for Your Root Flare"
by Kevin Bassett
first published in December, 1995
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The root flare is the portion to
the tree where the trunk widens at the base as it transitions to the
root system. This flare occurs at the natural grade of the
soil. It is of critical importance that this level be
maintained. The addition of soil around the base of a tree is
extremely damaging as trunk tissue deteriorates slowly when in constant
contact with soil and soil moisture. The critical tissue damaged
is the phloem which is responsible for the distribution of food energy
manufactured in the leaves. As the phloem deteriorates, the
tree looses its ability to utilize food energy for growth. The
result is a tree with poor growth, die-back, and eventually,
death. The problem is easy to diagnose. Examine the base of
the tree. If there is no obvious widening as the trunk enters the
ground, then the tree is not at its natural grade. Remedial action
may be necessary if this is the case.
Remedial action involves careful excavation
of the excess fill, removal of girdling roots, and in some cases, the
construction of a tree well. Lack of rot flares occur when the
trees are planted too deeply, when landscape additions such as flower
beds are added around existing trees, or during construction.
I see far too many trees suffering from
problems related to improper grade. In many cases remedial action
can help these trees.
As always, our staff is ready to help your
trees be their best.
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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
"Important Landscape Information
and Strategies"
by Kevin Bassett
first published in November, 1994
- It's time to prune Oaks - especially Live Oaks and Red Oaks.
To avoid the chance of your trees contracting Oak Wilt disease,
necessary pruning should be done before February 1, 1995. The
risky and inappropriate time for Oak pruning is February 1 through
June 15. (According to Texas Forest Service).
- For the best root development, aerification is the key. Our
deep root invigoration process helps considerably with aeration as
well as providing your trees with the nutrients required for good
growth in our soils. Fertilization and inspection programs are
available.
- Turf grass and Trees ........ As most of you know, it is extremely
difficult to have both beautiful, healthy trees and a
wonderful lawn. These two types of plants are inherently
incompatible.
Trees originated in forests with rich,
fertile soils and surface layers covered with decomposing leaves and
other organic material. Yet in many of our landscapes we attempt
to grow trees in compacted, disturbed soils with aggressive turf grass competition
over the entire root zone. This competition with grass along with
the absence of a humus layer, restricts the development of the absorbing
fine roots. Further, mowing and weed management also lead to tree
problems; mechanical bark damage from line trimmers and mowers, as well
as the use of herbicides, can cause severe damage to trees whose roots
are within the treated area. Although herbicides that can cause
tree damage have precautionary statements on their labels, most
applicators do not realize that tree roots extend 2-3 times the branch
system. Therefore, herbicide injury is a frequent
occurrence. Trees cause problems for the grass. Excessive
shade limits photosynthesis and the subsequent production of
carbohydrates necessary for turf growth. Most turf grasses do well
in full sun, may tolerate partial shade, and barely survive in heavy
shade.
SOLUTIONS:
The most effective strategy to
improve conditions for trees is to maintain large, mulched areas around
them. Eliminate grass and use mulch. A shade tolerant ground
cover such as Vinca, English Ivy, Moneywort, or others, can then be
introduced into the mulched area, if desired.
For small trees the mulch area should extend
to the drip line. Dramatic growth response can be expected because
the mulch improves aeration in the upper portions of the soil, improves
water retention and moderates soil temperatures, further, as the mulch
decomposes, nutrients become available to the tree.
Tree-Turf conflicts will always be with us,
however, beautiful landscapes are attainable if we use the right plants
in locations and environments in which they are best suited.
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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
"Dormant Season Tree Care"
by Kevin Bassett
first published in November, 1993
|
This column is devoted to
subjects relative to tree health, common problems encountered, and tips
which will help you help your trees.
Although the deciduous trees have lost their
leaves for the winter and we humans consider the trees to be dormant,
physiologically the tree is very active. New roots are being
developed and the tree is preparing itself for the upcoming
spring. It is important to note that photosynthesis may have
stopped when the leaves drop, however, respiration does not.
Respiration is the process where food manufactured in the leaves is
burned with oxygen obtained through the roots to provide the energy
necessary for growth.
What's the point? The past several
winters have been extremely wet with the soil saturated for long periods
of time resulting in low oxygen levels in the soil and consequently a
low rate of respiration. Many of our tree species which prefer a
dry site (Texas Red Oak, Chinquapin Oak, etc.) have experienced some
problems related to weakened root systems that I believe to be caused by
the excess water and low oxygen levels in the soil.
What can I do? Although no person can
control the weather, each of us can control the use of our irrigation
system. Our clay soil should be allowed to cycle through wet and
dry periods. Prior to irrigation check the soil at a depth of 6 to
8 inches. If it crumbles, it is time to irrigate. If it
packs into a wet clay ball suitable for making pottery, no irrigation is
necessary. Allowing the soil to dry increases the oxygen content
and then the respiration rate. You will have healthier, stronger
plants able to withstand our hot Texas summers, if you irrigate less
frequently, but thoroughly saturate the root zone when you do
irrigate. The benefits are stronger roots, healthier plants and a
lower water bill.
The dormant season is an excellent time for
tree pruning. Live Oaks and Red Oaks should be pruned at this time
or in the heat of summer to cut down on the risk of Oak Wilt
disease. Live Oaks and Red Oaks should not be pruned in the
spring.
If you have any questions concerning the
health of your trees, please call us. One of our Certified
Arborists will be happy to answer your questions.
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Services, Inc.
©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No
Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent
of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
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