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Two Years of Record Temperatures 
Taking Their Toll

by Kevin Bassett & Russell N. Peters
first published in August, 2000

     The 1998 and 1999 summers in North Texas have been brutal on our shade trees, both native and introduced.  One key impact is that we have seen established Shumard and Texas Red Oaks fail to re-leaf this year.  Some of these trees are on irrigated sites in well cared for gardens.

     It appears that high soil temperatures during the last two years have damaged the root systems of these species resulting in death or significant dieback of the tree.  Many of these formed buds for this year's growth, last fall, then went into dormancy as normal, but failed to leaf out this year.  We have ruled out most pathological reasons that might have caused the mortality.  These are Red Oaks that have not sustained any type of root injury or change in their root environment.  What is interesting about each of these particular trees is that not one was on a consistent deep root fertilization program before it died.  Another example of the potential benefits in the proactive care of trees.

     Many of our customers utilize our customized blend of high quality organic fertilizer in their maintenance program.  The high-pressure soil injection process aerates the soil while surrounding the main root system with our special mix.  The effectiveness of the system is quite impressive, particularly when utilized in areas with distressed trees, or even worse, those damaged by construction.

     The fertilizer material has a high humate content, along with a micronutrient complex and beneficial soil borne bacteria.  This material does not promote excessive top growth, as many high nitrogen materials will.  It does however, promote a healthy environment in and around the root zone of trees stimulating the natural biological systems.  As mentioned, the application process helps aerate the root zone.  This is critical in our heavy clay soils of North Texas, as tree roots are opportunistic growers in well-aerated soils.  Root invigoration programs can be designed on a remedial basis if we are working with damaged trees or a maintenance basis once or twice a year.

     Of course, anyone interested in more information about our deep root fertilization program can contact an Arborist at our office.

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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.



Spider Mites

by Kevin Bassett and Russell Peters
first published in May, 1999

     Spider mites are a pest that attack a wide variety of our shade trees and landscape plant material.

     Mites are technically not an insect but more closely related to ticks or spiders.  They are extremely small and difficult to see with the naked eye.  The damage, however, is fairly easy to spot once you become familiar with the symptoms that spider mites produce.

     A flecking or stippling appearance on the top side of foliage of affected plant material is the most common symptom produced by spider mites.  Often a dusty or gray cast is apparent on damaged foliage.  Many of the warm season mites produce toxins during feeding on plant tissue, which can cause yellowing and leaf drop when populations are high.  Spider mites have a short life cycle and reproduce every 5 (five) days.  Often all stages from eggs to adult are present at any one time.

     Daytime temperatures over 75 degrees are favorable for spider mite activity and reproduction.  In the north Texas area, we normally experience mite activity from May through September.  Early control measures, prior to the development of wide spread visual damage, is critical.

     Mites will commonly over-winter on trees and shrubs.  Over-wintering populations can be greatly reduced with dormant oil applications.  This manages the mites present on the plant at the time of application and helps reduce early season outbreaks.  Additional control measures are necessary with approved miticides.  A series of spray applications are made from May through August to assure good control.

     Trees and shrubs in our area which are commonly attacked by spider mites include:  Bald Cypress, Live Oak, Cedar Elm, Magnolia, Althea, Azalea, and Boxwood.

     Contact your Arborist for more information and  pricing of our spray programs.

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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.



Suffering North Texas Trees

by Kevin R. Bassett and Russell N. Peters
first published in January, 1999

     Another year has gone by and most of our trees endured a difficult Texas summer.  As the new year begins it is a good time to review arborilogical services which may be needed over the next year.

INSECT & DISEASE CONTROL

     Many species of trees are targets of pests such as scale insects, lace bugs, phylloxera gall, etc...  Many of these insects may be controlled with a dormant season application of a horticulture grade oil.  The oil applied to smother the insect eggs and/or adults that survived the winter.  The material is endorsed in many "organic" insect control programs because horticultural grade oil is easy on the environment and non-target organisms.  The horticultural oil application is an extremely safe and effective tool to manage many over-wintering insects.  Check with your Arborist to see if a dormant oil spray would benefit your trees.

PRUNING

    
Timing of the tree pruning operation may or may not be important to your trees.  Most trees may be safely pruned at any time of the year, however, there are exceptions.  Due to the incidence of Oak wilt, it is recommended that Red Oaks and Live Oaks NOT be pruned between Feb. 15th and June 1st.  This is because these species are most susceptible due to the increased level of activity of the sap feeding beetle at a time when the fungus is most likely reproducing.  Therefore, if your Live Oaks or Red Oaks are in need of pruning, it should be done prior to Feb. 15th or after June 1st.

     Control of mistletoe, a parasitic plant, can be achieved by pruning to remove infected twigs and branches.  This is not always 100% possible because the mistletoe may have infected major limbs or branches which would not be removed during the normal course of pruning.  Control of mistletoe is achieved by removing the mistletoe plant prior to dissemination of the seeds.  They are covered with a  sticky, gelatinous substance so they will stick to the tree and germinate, thus forming a new mistletoe plant.  Birds play a primary role in disseminating the seed.  The sticky coating around the seed allows the seed to stick to limbs once it passes through the bird.  Pruning for mistletoe control is best done in the dormant season when the mistletoe is easily visible.  Normally it will take two or three years for the mistletoe to reach the seed producing stage again.  This is when pruning to control the mistletoe should be repeated.  There is a spray labeled "for mistletoe control" called "Florel."  Unfortunately, this material is expensive, requires precise timing to be efficient, and can have undesirable effects on non-target plants.  If mistletoe is a problem for your trees, consult your Arborist about the treatment options available to control this threat to your tree's health.

     There are a number of fungal leaf diseases which occur on our trees.  These would include black spot of Elm, Ash anthracnose, Oak anthracnose, tar spot, and actinopelte leaf spot.  These diseases can be unsightly as well as unhealthy for your trees.  They normally begin when moderate temperatures and high moisture levels are present for a long period of time.  The droplets of water on the leaf surface create an ideal environment for the fungal spores to germinate, infect the leaf tissue and begin the disease cycle.  Severely infected leaves are usually cast off by the tree.  A healthy tree will readily produce new leaves, however, this process requires that the tree expend a lot of energy in combating the  disease.  Weak or otherwise stressed trees may not respond vigorously and decline.  These diseases may be controlled.  An initial spray with a fungicide treatment is repeated on 2-3 week intervals to suppress the fungi until warmer, drier weather prevails and the threat of infection subsides.  Trees which have had a disease of this type within the last two years are prime candidates for control measures.  This is because the fungal spores over-winter in the bud scales surrounding the new leaf.  When the new leaves emerge, the spores are already present.  If environmental conditions favor the fungi, infection and subsequent disease symptoms will result.  <return to top>

FERTILIZATION/DEEP ROOT INVIGORATION

     Trees normally live in forests.  In the forest a tree's nutrition is supplied by the gradual breakdown of organic matter by micro organisms.  The urban forest rarely has this type of nutrient recycling because the urban forest is dominated by large areas of turf and paving.  Additionally, we humans have a habit of picking up and discarding fallen limbs, branches, leaves and other sources of organic matter vital to the health and well being of trees.  Our tree fertilization/root invigoration program is designed to infuse the urban soil with many of the missing ingredients found in forest soils.  Humus is one of the end products of organic matter decomposition, and is one of the main components of our mix for tree fertilization and root invigoration.  We add other materials such as sulfur and iron when needed to help our non-native trees adapt and hopefully thrive in what is a less than ideal soil.  Our fertilization technique allows for a custom mix of materials required by the species on a given site.  For instance, a property which has several Sweet Gum and Magnolia will receive a measured amount of chelated iron and sulfur along with our standard mix.  This is to provide the tree with nutrients not normally available in our poorly drained clay soil, due in part to the high pH.  Remember, many species planted in Dallas actually prefer a low pH, well drained, loamy or sandy soil and would not grow well in the area without help.

     As always, if you have particular questions about your trees, consult with your Arborist.  We are confident we can help your trees endure the rigors of growing in our urban forest.  <return to menu>

©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.



"The Summer of 1998"

by Kevin Bassett and Russell Peters
first published in September, 1998

     We are experiencing the hottest weather we have had in nearly two decades.  Not only are the temperatures high, but they have been constant as well.  This has taken its toll on our landscapes and especially our trees.  Many of the tree species which are not well adapted are failing.  Many of these have been planted since the last time we experienced temperatures like this, nearly 18 years ago.

     It appears that Mother Nature is cleaning up the exotic taste of many of our Landscape Architects.  Birch, exotic Maples, Cherries and many others are fading away.  This is a good lesson to learn from.  We so often look only at "plant hardiness", a rating which predicts how low of a temperature a plant can tolerate without substantial winter injury.  Unfortunately, there is really not a rating for heat tolerance.  This is leading to some substantial plant loss throughout the Metroplex.

     The species of trees which we have recommended to avoid, Silver Maple for example, are failing in high numbers.  The high air temperatures have raised the average soil temperature above our norm as well.  This can accelerate the onset of soil borne pathogens.

     The biggest mistake we are seeing is that homeowners are trying to compensate for the heat by increasing the irrigation frequency and output.  Many times this will cause irreversible damage to the root systems of existing trees which can lead to failure in the future.  It is certain that irrigation systems need to be adjusted, but please do not overdo.  It is difficult to provide a recommendation for all properties because there are so many variables when it comes to a specific site and water needs.  In general our soils absorb water slowly, therefore, high volume irrigation systems deliver too much water too fast, resulting in runoff and waste.  Ideal irrigation would thoroughly wet the soil to a depth of at least one foot.  Deep, slow irrigation once or twice a week is preferable to daily, light irrigation.  One promotes deeply rooted, healthy plants equipped to deal with the worst Texas weather, and the other produces shallow rooted plants which readily exhibit the problems associated with drought conditions.

     There are a few telltale signs to look for around the landscape which can indicate too much water.  The first is a green sheen on the soil surface indicating algae growth.  This green color can also be seen at the base of foundations and on stone work.  The second sign would be moisture seeping from the edges of walks and curbs.  If you see any of these signs, your trees are likely suffering from too much water and you should take steps to reduce irrigation frequency and output.

     If you have any questions regarding this or any other topic we cover, please contact your Arborist. 

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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.



Pathologists Corner

by Kevin Bassett and Russell Peters
first published in January, 1998

     Oak wilt is caused by a fungus (Ceratocystis fagacearum) which colonizes the vascular system of the tree.  Conduction of water is disrupted causing the leaves to wilt and ultimately for the tree to die.  The disease is highly virulent and spreads in two (2) known ways.  Trees which have formed root grafts with infected trees may themselves become infected through root graft transmission.  For this reason entire stands of Oak forests may be destroyed over a period of time.  New Oak wilt infection centers may begin when a small sap feeding beetle (aka Nitidulid) visits a spore mat on an infected Red Oak.  (Live Oaks do not produce spore mats).  Once the insect has visited a spore mat, his body may carry the fungal spores to a fresh wound, thus creating a new Oak wilt center infection.  The sap feeding beetles are attracted to feed on the sap which oozes from fresh wounds on trees.  Sap feeding beetle activity, spore formation and tree susceptibility are all at high levels from February to June.  For these reasons the Oak wilt control strategy involves the following recommendations:

  1. Avoid pruning mid February - mid June (Red Oaks and Live Oaks).
  2. If you must prune during this time, paint cuts and wounds as soon as possible after they occur.  The sap flow from wounds usually has stopped within 24-48 hours, therefore, old wounds do not require painting.
  3. Healthy trees near Oak wilt infection centers may be treated on a preventable basis with the fungicide "Propaconizol" (aka Alamo).  This fungicide is injected into the tree at the root flares, and can protect trees for up to three (3) years.
  4. Once trees have become infected, successful therapeutic treatment with Alamo is possible, however, results vary and most trees will not survive once symptoms develop.
  5. Infected trees, particularly Red Oaks, should be removed promptly.  Red Oak firewood may be another means by which the fungus may be transported to new areas.

     Additional research is needed to solve the biology regarding the overland transmission of this potentially devastating tree disease.

     More information is available concerning Oak wilt through the Texas A&M extension service, the Texas Forest Service or on the internet at:  http://Cygnus.tamu.edu/texlab/oakwilt.html

     If you have any further questions or suspect you may have Oak wilt please give us a call. 

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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.



Pathologists Corner

written by Kevin Bassett and Russell Peters
first published in January, 1997

     Winter is upon us and many times our trees go without attention.  The dormant season is actually a very good time to prune many of our shade and ornamental trees.  One of the most obvious things we deal with this time of year is mistletoe.

     This plant is a parasite that derives its nutrients and moisture from the tree it has infected.  Infections left to develop in trees can lead to weakened areas in larger limbs thus resulting in limb failure.  Once the mistletoe plant matures, seeds are produced which spread throughout the tree canopy, causing multiple infection sites.  Our mistletoe control program is directed toward removing entire branches or twigs infected with mistletoe.  When large limbs or limbs critical to the structure of the tree are infected we remove the mistletoe only, however regrowth occurs.  Mistletoe removal will be necessary about ever 2 to 3 years on average.  This will address regrowth of old infections as well as new infections that will constantly occur on susceptible species.

     The North Texas area has a number of susceptible species, many of which are growing in our residential landscapes.  Cedar Elm by far is the most susceptible high value species where we see mistletoe infections.  Other species include American Elm, Hackberry, Mulberry, Ash, and Bois d' arc.  Winter is also a common time for new infections to occur as birds will consume the fruit that has now matured, and deposit seeds throughout the canopies of susceptible species.  We can remove mistletoe anytime of the year.  However, it is much more visible during the dormant season and in most cases more easily removed this time of year.

     Another important process that can be forgotten this time of year is deep root fertilization.  Our process utilizes a high quality organic fertilizer solution applied directly to the root area of our urban shade trees.  This material will be available for uptake by the tree or plant for 6-8 months.  Many of us forget our southern soils rarely, if ever, freeze and soil temperatures are generally quite favorable for root growth and development this time of year.  The mixture we use is applied under pressure which aids in aeration of the root zone as well as uniform distribution throughout the root area of our trees.  Many times the lack of oxygen alone can be the most limiting element in healthy root growth.  This is especially true in the heavy clay soils of North Texas.

     Call one of our qualified I.S.A. Certified Arborists to assist you with a plan and an estimate of cost for mistletoe removal and/or deep root fertilization.

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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.



"Look for Your Root Flare"

by Kevin Bassett
first published in December, 1995

     The root flare is the portion to the tree where the trunk widens at the base as it transitions to the root system.  This flare occurs at the natural grade of the soil.  It is of critical importance that this level be maintained.  The addition of soil around the base of a tree is extremely damaging as trunk tissue deteriorates slowly when in constant contact with soil and soil moisture.  The critical tissue damaged is the phloem which is responsible for the distribution of food energy manufactured in the  leaves.  As the phloem deteriorates, the tree looses its ability to utilize food energy for growth.  The result is a tree with poor growth, die-back, and eventually, death.  The problem is easy to diagnose.  Examine the base of the tree.  If there is no obvious widening as the trunk enters the ground, then the tree is not at its natural grade.  Remedial action may be necessary if this is the case.

     Remedial action involves careful excavation of the excess fill, removal of girdling roots, and in some cases, the construction of a tree well.  Lack of rot flares occur when the trees are planted too deeply, when landscape additions such as flower beds are added around existing trees, or during construction.

     I see far too many trees suffering from problems related to improper grade.  In many cases remedial action can help these trees.

     As always, our staff is ready to help your trees be their best. 

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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.



"Important Landscape Information and Strategies"

by Kevin Bassett
first published in November, 1994

  1. It's time to prune Oaks - especially Live Oaks and Red Oaks.  To avoid the chance of your trees contracting Oak Wilt disease, necessary pruning should be done before February 1, 1995.  The risky and inappropriate time for Oak pruning is February 1 through June 15.  (According to Texas Forest Service).


  2. For the best root development, aerification is the key.  Our deep root invigoration process helps considerably with aeration as well as providing your trees with the nutrients required for good growth in our soils.  Fertilization and inspection programs are available.


  3. Turf grass and Trees ........ As most of you know, it is extremely difficult to have both beautiful, healthy trees  and a wonderful lawn.  These two types of plants are inherently incompatible.

     Trees originated in forests with rich, fertile soils and surface layers covered with decomposing leaves and other organic material.  Yet in many of our landscapes we attempt to grow trees in compacted, disturbed soils with aggressive turf grass competition over the entire root zone.  This competition with grass along with the absence of a humus layer, restricts the development of the absorbing fine roots.  Further, mowing and weed management also lead to tree problems; mechanical bark damage from line trimmers and mowers, as well as the use of herbicides, can cause severe damage to trees whose roots are within the treated area.  Although herbicides that can cause tree damage have precautionary statements on their labels, most applicators do not realize that tree roots extend 2-3 times the branch system.  Therefore, herbicide injury is a frequent occurrence.  Trees cause problems for the grass.  Excessive shade limits photosynthesis and the subsequent production of carbohydrates necessary for turf growth.  Most turf grasses do well in full sun, may tolerate partial shade, and barely survive in heavy shade.

SOLUTIONS:

     The most effective strategy to improve conditions for trees is to maintain large, mulched areas around them.  Eliminate grass and use mulch.  A shade tolerant ground cover such as Vinca, English Ivy, Moneywort, or others, can then be introduced into the mulched area, if desired.

     For small trees the mulch area should extend to the drip line.  Dramatic growth response can be expected because the mulch improves aeration in the upper portions of the soil, improves water retention and moderates soil temperatures, further, as the mulch decomposes, nutrients become available to the tree.

     Tree-Turf conflicts will always be with us, however, beautiful landscapes are attainable if we use the right plants in locations and environments in which they are best suited. 

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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.



"Dormant Season Tree Care"

by Kevin Bassett
first published in November, 1993

     This column is devoted to subjects relative to tree health, common problems encountered, and tips which will help you help your trees.

     Although the deciduous trees have lost their leaves for the winter and we humans consider the trees to be dormant, physiologically the tree is very active.  New roots are being developed and the tree is preparing itself for the upcoming spring.  It is important to note that photosynthesis may have stopped when the leaves drop, however, respiration does not.  Respiration is the process where food manufactured in the leaves is burned with oxygen obtained through the roots to provide the energy necessary for growth.

     What's the point?  The past several winters have been extremely wet with the soil saturated for long periods of time resulting in low oxygen levels in the soil and consequently a low rate of respiration.  Many of our tree species which prefer a dry site (Texas Red Oak, Chinquapin Oak, etc.) have experienced some problems related to weakened root systems that I believe to be caused by the excess water and low oxygen levels in the soil.

     What can I do?  Although no person can control the weather, each of us can control the use of our irrigation system.  Our clay soil should be allowed to cycle through wet and dry periods.  Prior to irrigation check the soil at a depth of 6 to 8 inches.  If it crumbles, it is time to irrigate.  If it packs into a wet clay ball suitable for making pottery, no irrigation is necessary.  Allowing the soil to dry increases the oxygen content and then the respiration rate.  You will have healthier, stronger plants able to withstand our hot Texas summers, if you irrigate less frequently, but thoroughly saturate the root zone when you do irrigate.  The benefits are stronger roots, healthier plants and a lower water bill.

     The dormant season is an excellent time for tree pruning.  Live Oaks and Red Oaks should be pruned at this time or in the heat of summer to cut down on the risk of Oak Wilt disease.  Live Oaks and Red Oaks should not be pruned in the spring.

     If you have any questions concerning the health of your trees, please call us.  One of our Certified Arborists will be happy to answer your questions. 

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©Copyright 2007 by Arborilogical Services, Inc. No Reproduction is permitted in whole or part without the express written consent of Arborilogical Services, Inc.