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Master gardeners hear from arborist
March 10th, 2011 | 
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Although most Texans think of drought and cold as the top enemies of trees, snow, ice and wind can create additional stress that leads to major breakage or toppling, a North Texas arborist told members of the Wood County Master Gardeners in a monthly meeting Thursday, Feb. 17, in Quitman. In the wake of recent heavy snowfalls in North Texas, arborist Steve Houser, who serves as chairman of the Urban Forest Advisory Committee for the city of Dallas, spoke about how to protect and repair damaged trees. “The best way to avoid damage is to understand the tree,” Houser told the group. Trees that, when they begin to branch, are joined in a U shape are stronger trees and more likely to weather the storms, he said. But those with tight V shapes are more likely to break. These are trees that may need a cable and bolt system to keep the branches from splitting. Equipment needed for the cabling is available at an arborist supply store, he said.Because fruit-bearing trees build up weight on the ends of the limbs, they are also vulnerable to breakage, although proper trimming can help, he said. Trim some of the smaller limbs at the end to relieve the weight, while making sure you leave a natural look, he said. But never take more than 20 to 30 percent off a tree because it will interfere with its food-making processes, he warned. Houser said last year he saw lots of damaged trees because of the ice and snow. When snow builds up especially on smaller plants, stand away from the plant and use a cane pole to gently knock off the snow, he said.The root system is also a very important to supporting the tree, he said. The roots run horizontally within the top four or five feet of the soil and can extend four to five times the distance of the canopy of the tree. That means a neighbor who puts herbicide on his lawn can affect your tree, he warned. If you must cut the roots, use a saw and paint the ends with a latex spray paint because of soil pathogens, he advised. When trimming limbs, cut at a slight angle just passed the branch collar or flair where it meets the trunk, he said. If the limb is long, cut it in pieces starting at the tip. Houser also asked the group to help in an attempt to locate trees at least 200 years old which have been bent to the ground and are attached. Some of these trees were bent by Native Americans to serve as markers and need to be preserved, he said.
Source: Mineola Monitor
Steve Houser is a Certified Arborist and currently the owner and President of Arborilogical Services, Inc.
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Managing Woodpecker Damage
Woodpecker Damage - Photo by James Solomon, USDA Forest Service
Arborists are often asked, “What is boring holes in a straight line across my tree’s trunk?”
The woodpecker is the culprit, and most of the time it causes no health problems for the tree. The most common woodpecker in our area is the Yellow-Bellied Sapsucker. This migratory bird can be identified by its medium size and distinctive markings. The adult birds are identified by a black crescent on the breast, pale yellow belly, white wing stripe, and a crimson crown. The male also has a crimson chin and throat, distinguishing him from the female whose chin and throat are white.
IDENTIFYING THE WOODPECKER DAMAGE
Typical damage can be a single row of small holes or several rows close together around the trunk or branches. Woodpeckers are drilling these holes to feed on sap and the insects attracted to it. Just because a woodpecker is feeding on a tree, does not mean the tree is infested with insects. Although some woodpeckers do feed on wood boring insects, bark lice and other pests harmful to trees.
Severe Woodpecker Damage: Minnesota Department of Natural Resources Archives
In severe cases, the rows of holes can be drilled so close together that entire patches of bark and wood are removed. If the tree is small and the damage is extensive, the tree could be girdled. This results in reducing the tree’s ability to transport water and nutrients, and the tree could die. This is rare, and most damage should not be a concern. Woodpeckers choose trees for no particular reason, but tree species with softer bark or high sugar content in their sap are favored. Some trees are repeatedly chosen over and over each year due to habit and migratory patterns.
MANAGEMENT OF WOODPECKER DAMAGE
Physical Repellents:
- Wrap burlap or other materials loosely around the area being tapped
- Smear a sticky repellent material on the affected area such as: Tanglefoot, Roost-No-More, or Bird Stop
Visual Repellents:
- Hang shiny metal objects (aluminum) or brightly colored plastics on or around the tree
Noise Repellents:
- Play bird distress calls or any other loud noises. Ex: propane cannons, fuse ropes, bird banger rockets, screamers, electronic scare devices or music.
In summary, it’s best not to worry about the damage already caused by woodpeckers. Instead, implementation of deterrents may be the best strategy in coping with further damage. This also aids in the prevention of any initial destruction.
The Migratory Bird Treaty Act prohibits the killing of woodpeckers without a permit.
References: North Central Forest Experiment Station, Forest Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, St. Paul, Minnesota
Kentucky Department of Fish & Wildlife Resources
How To Hire An Arborist
Article written by - Steve Houser -Owner and President of Arborilogical Services
There can be a great difference between Arborists as far as knowledge and experience. Understanding the difference between a Consulting Arborist, a Certified Arborist, and a tree climbing Arborist is important in judging the particular person to use for a given task.
Any person that is involved with trees must have one common understanding. They must have some knowledge of current tree care practices and philosophies. To quote Dr Alex Shigo, “Ignorance of tree science is the biggest cause of worldwide tree problems.” In my opinion, the biggest cause of tree problems in our area is not Oak wilt or a deadly pathogen. It is due to the care (or lack of) that the trees receive from property owners, or sometimes, the tree care providers. In any case, it is still a lack of education. Are you the trees worst enemy? You might be, and not even know it!!!
Here are important things to consider or ask when hiring a tree care provider:
- Is the salesperson you are talking to on a commission? Obviously, more dollars sold will equal a larger paycheck for the salesperson. This creates an inherent tendency to sell more.
- Are you in doubt about an Arborist’s recommendations? Ask him (or her) to send information or research to back them up. There are, however, certain instances where no scientific studies or data exist. In these situations it is very important to believe someone who knows the biology of trees and is familiar with native tree species.
- How long have you been in business? Most companies don’t make it beyond 5-7 years. Watch out though! Some companies overstate the facts to gain credibility. You can ask for a copy of an “Assumed Name Certificate”, which shows the date they filed for the company name. If a person wants to use a company with less than 5-7 years in the business it is very likely that they will need to constantly hire new companies. The best advice is to establish a solid relationship with a company that has an established track record. Also, most companies will go out of their way to please a loyal client as opposed to one who bounces from company to company.When a windstorm hits the area causing severe damage and an Arborist receives calls regarding dire emergencies from old clients and new, which one’s do you think take priority? The loyal client comes first.
- Should cost be the only factor in deciding whom to use? Not if you care about your trees or establishing a good relationship with a company. It is understandable that two exact products should be bought for a cheaper price, but services (especially tree services) vary greatly. In order to compare prices you must be comparing apples to apples!! This requires research and time.To a novice, it is tough to judge credentials, experience, knowledge etc… Many people in our area are ripped off by tree companies and unfortunately, DON’T KNOW THE DIFFERENCE! Trust me, the best “deal” you can get is a company that cares, enjoys the work and knows what they are doing.
- Is the Company charging a fair rate? How much do you pay per hour for other services on your property? An average would be $ 75-95 per hour (excluding lawn mowing). Area tree companies are not at these rates, but I believe they will be someday. The work is far more difficult and dangerous than any other service provider that you currently use. A Company with quality employees, from top to bottom will charge more than a company that hires some or many average or below average employees. Prices charged are in direct relation to the quality of the company, therefore cost can vary greatly.
- Is the consultant charging a fair rate? Consultants with education and experience charge more than those with less experience or education. This does not mean that because they charge more they are better. Close scrutiny of a consultant’s credentials is of absolute necessity. Your trees and landscape can be worth thousands of dollars. Don’t trust just anyone!!!
- How many of the company employees have competed in the I.S.A. Texas Tree Climbing competition? This competition is a rigorous test of skill, safety, balance, coordination, technique and knowledge! Good companies train employees in climbing technique, but more importantly, in safety, on a regular basis. They also place well in the competition.
- Do they drug test their employees? Quality companies do not allow employees on a job site until proper screening is complete.
- Do they provide references? Don’t put much stock in references because companies give you someone they know is a good reference. It is better to ask for the address of recent work in your neighborhood. This way you can drive by and view their work.
- Does the company want your input AFTER the job is complete? Only a company that cares wants your input AFTER the sale to detect company deficiencies. Also, they should act immediately on any deficiencies noted.
- Is the company good in all areas of arboriculture and business management? Very few companies are good in both areas. If someone is a State Champion tree climber, it doesn’t mean he knows the science of trees, or that he knows how to run a company. A company must be solid in all areas to offer everything a client needs in a long-term, holistic sense.
- What happens if the salesperson underbids the time required to do the job? Most companies that underbid work, cut corners to make up for time or try to charge the client more. Good companies do the job right even if they lose money. Reputation is more important than a loss on one job. How good is anybody’s work when they are in a rush?
- Does the company have a newsletter to keep clients informed? It’s not a necessity, but it is a mark of professionalism. A company that takes the time, effort, and expense is interested in the education of clients and being in business for many years to come—not simply making a quick buck.
- Check with the Better Business Bureau (BBB). BBB now has a web-site and E-mail so it’s easy to check out any company. Those that are not members can still have records indicating unresolved complaints.
- Is the company you are considering insured for liability and injury protection? Ask for a current “Certificate of Insurance”. It may take a few days to receive but it is worth the peace of mind. If you ask for a certificate but don’t receive one or if you receive one and it does not have your name (or company name) listed as the insured, DON’T USE THEM!!!
- There is no licensing of Arborists in the state. Any claim otherwise is untrue. Bonding is only important on extremely large jobs (larger than most any homeowner jobs) or if you are dealing with a small company that you may be concerned that they can (or will) complete the job. Except in the case of unusual circumstances, most companies don’t ask for any payment up front.
- It’s always good to ask if they are active in the community or donate time to worthwhile causes. It’s not a necessity but rather something to offer a further judgment of corporate responsibility.
- Reputable companies are members of the International Society of Arboriculture, National Arborist Association and sometimes the American Society of Consulting Arborists. There are no other official trade organizations. I have heard of companies that invent their own organization (within a company) that may sound official but mean nothing. Only the three organizations listed are officially recognized.
- Never use a company knocking on doors. Reputable Arborist don’t engage in this practice. The same is true for yardmen that leave door hangers stating that they provide “tree trimming.” Few qualified Arborists offer yard care service, and of those, none go door to door.
- Reputable Arborist are generally involved in Arboriculture alone. Companies that are involved in other fields may be the “Jack of all trades but master of none” variety.
- Be sure the company you hire provides complete tree care services. If they don’t, you may need to hire other companies to fertilize, grind stumps, remove trees, etc. If you’re not sure, ask.
- Ask if the company recycles the chip mulch and logs. With decreasing amounts of landfill space available, its good to know that material from your job will not take up landfill space. Also note that many cities do not recycle brush and logs removed from a property. So if the Tree Company you hire does not haul off the brush and logs or if it’s left for the city to haul it may reduce our landfill space.
- Never let anyone climb a live tree with spikes unless it is to be removed. If they are used on a live tree they can cause extensive damage. Simply ask, “Do you use spikes?”
In regard to any proposal/estimate received:
- Be sure all-specific requirements and costs are clearly stated.
- Be sure you include tax when an estimate does not state that it is included. All tree services are taxable, and if a company does not charge sales tax, your dealing with the wrong company.
- Be sure the arborist signs the proposal. Although legally it may not matter, if someone signs his or her name to something, it provides further comfort.
- You may wish to ask if they accept credit cards or have a payment plan (if necessary).
- Be careful what you sign. Read the fine print.
- Tell the arborist you are getting bids from two other specific companies. If the reaction is “Boy those guys are dirtbags” you know you are not dealing with a professional. A reputable company does not allow any employee to degrade any other company or their personnel.
- Be careful of techniques and materials used in the cabling and bracing of trees. Materials specifically designed for our industry must be used. If the proper materials are utilized, but the cables angle or tension is wrong, or an improper method of installation was used, it can actually increase rather than decrease the odds of structural failure. It’s wise to ask about materials and if they will be installed according to industry standards.
How To Prune A Crepe Myrtle
By: Steve Houser
In order to know how to properly prune any plant, a basic understanding of the characteristics and growth habit of the plant in our area is required. A Crepe Myrtle is not quite like any other local plant in how it grows, and is therefore not like others when considering how they can be pruned. A Crepe Myrtle is an ornamental plant that blooms profusely throughout most of the growing season. They can grow to over 25’ tall, are very hard wooded and the small twigs or old seed pods do not produce new growth in the spring (like most plants). Tip growth normally dies back approximately 7-12 inches in the winter months. If a Crepe Myrtle is not tip pruned by spring, the new growth will emerge approximately 7-12 inches from the old seed pods. This leaves dead tips as it emerges in the spring. Since Crepe Myrtles are rapid growers, the new growth will rapidly obscure the view of the dead tips within a few months. The dead tips are of no great consequence to the overall health of the plant. Aesthetically, the dead tip is not attractive for the first few months of the growing season. They are also known for producing root sprouts that grow upward from the outward growing roots or near the root collar (or root crown).
The three factors that must be considered in the pruning of Crepe Myrtles are health, aesthetics and cost or time to maintain the desired condition.
Crepe Myrtles are hardy plants that can sustain moderate freeze damage or severe reductions in size (even to the ground level) and in most cases, still grow back. Crepes that are planted north of our area can encounter freeze damage to the top growth, but are like an annual in that they can grow back from their roots. From a pure health prospective, they should be maintained in the same fashion as a shade tree by removing crossing limbs and canes (if practical), removing root sprouts, structural pruning, and basic deadwood removal. This type of pruning can be done anytime of the year and is the most beneficial to the long term health and longevity of the plant
From an aesthetic point of view, tip pruning of Crepes can be utilized to make them more attractive. Proper tip pruning should be accomplished in late January thru March, but not after the new shoots have emerged in the spring. Current research shows that tip pruning (or heavy pruning) at other times of the year, may increase the odds of freeze damage. Tip pruning should be to approximate pencil size twigs and in a rounded form. Some Crepes may end up columnar in shape, but in any event, the top growth should not be cut flat because it encourages all the blooms to be at one height. Severe cutting back is not attractive, reduces food storage, encourages poor branching structure and should be avoided. Since all Crepe Myrtles will have dead tips in the spring, removal of pencil size twigs avoids viewing the dead portion and is more aesthetically pleasing. The best show of flowers can be obtained by constantly removing the spent seed pods (dead heading) throughout the growing season, although it can be very time consuming.
The amount of time (or cost) required to achieve a positive effect is much less for small (or medium) size Crepe Myrtles. Large or tall Crepes can be structurally pruned as noted above, however, tip pruning can be very time consuming (or costly) and is not of much benefit to the overall health. Severely cutting back the trunks will reduce the amount of time (or cost) to maintain them, but it is not what is best for the plants structure or health.
In summary, if you are concerned about only health, prune it like a small shade tree. If you are concerned with the aesthetics, prune it like a small shade tree and also tip prune. If you really want show, prune the seed pods as they die. Each step beyond leaving them alone involves more time and cost. What is right for you depends on your personal preference, the characteristics of the plant, the site and of course, and the budget.
